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May 14, 2014, 02:22:20 AM
IS there anyway to change the order of mny devices?
May 13, 2014, 03:59:14 AM
argh, i have six devices plugged in.
May 11, 2014, 07:29:32 AM
Hi Lei, SimBin games can detect a maximum of 3 devices. The devices should be all recognised as the first 3 devices in Windows. That's my understanding.
May 09, 2014, 04:02:08 PM
USB* devices
May 09, 2014, 04:01:52 PM
Does GTLegends have a limit on us devices? Fired it up again and I cant get it to recognize my csp pedals with my t500 wheel.
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May 02, 2014, 11:35:30 PM
Tell me more Petrolhead
May 02, 2014, 05:09:05 PM
Also also unsurprisingly, Darin Gangi had another of his online meltdowns! HAHAHAHAAA!!!!! Internet narcissism at it's most entertaining!
May 02, 2014, 05:07:45 PM
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    Author Topic: RHS Seat  (Read 8548 times)
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    JasonJ
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    « on: March 23, 2009, 06:29:19 PM »

    Round hollow steel (RHS) makes up the base of the frame.



    Too Hot - BMW crash, GTR Evo Sim Nordschleife

    Bad start - BMW crash, GTR Evo Sim Nordschleife


    My goal was to build a comfortable rig to play car and flight sims. Most of the design's focus was to get the wheel to sit in front of the screen to replace the in game virtual wheel. I find having a real wheel and a virtual wheel visible at the same time and at different positions in the gaming field of view just ruins my sim immersion. I didn't think there is much point building a dashboard and external dials when all that is provided inside the simulation on screen. Some smart positioning of the wheel/monitor and the virtual dashboard has everything I need, all realistically positioned in correct relation to the wheel.

    I was worried about the monitor getting vibrations from the wheel so the monitor table stand is a separate piece. Much like a coffee table but it fits in place so that it looks like part of the whole rig. There is space at the back of the monitor for the computer case which I will be putting there at a later date.


    Also, I really wanted an easy to reach handbrake lever so built a centre console to house both the shifter and handbrake. I can quickly remove the handbrake and it doubles as a flight stick It can be positioned on the keyboard stand which swings on a hinge up close to the right hand side of the rig. I can use the G25 shifter in sequential mode for up/down throttle and the G25 acc/brake pedals are ok for rudder.

    The wheel's hard mount has a special bracket I designed attached so the whole wheel can be quickly removed by only loosening the two front knobs, yet it is as strong as having the wheel hard mounted and there is no movement or flex in the wheel mounting system. The extra mount also tilts the wheel forward a little to make the wheel more vertically angled for comfort.

    I didn't want to void my G25 5yr warranty by dismantling the pedals, but I still wanted the foot well to have a proper flat area. So I cut out some checker plate aluminium to fit the G25 pedal unit and now it does not feel like you are trying to balance your feet on a small spot on the g25 base between shifting or during cruising. There is room either side to comfortably rest your feet and even stretch out if you want to use the rig to watch a movie, TV or just use the computer. There is plenty if room for the knees so you can heel and toe, without needing to add height to brake pedal. The whole pedal unit and floor section is also separate so it can be moved forward for very small children. The pedals can be moved very close to the seat and has lock-in holes to keep it there.

    Cockpit Frame Features:
    Cheap but tidy
    Smallest footprint area possible
    Tilt & Height Adjust wheel (reassembly now required to adjust)
    Can be used comfortably for both Flight Sims and Car Sims
    Easy seating access (no need to climb into a tub)
    Horizontal adjust seat position
    Horizontal adjust pedals position
    Checker plate steel pedal area
    Working handbrake with arm rest and centre console area
    Car Seat '92 Corolla with sheepskin cover



    PC & Hardware:
    Windows XP Pro SP3
    CPU Intel e8400 3.0 GHz
    RAM 4GB
    GPU Sapphire Radeon HD 4890 OC GDDR5 1GB
    GPU ZOTAC GTX 295 1792MB
    40" LCD 1920x1080
    G25 Wheel
    Attack3 Joystick (for car handbrake)
    Logitech Extreme 3D Pro (for flight joystick)
    note: PC has been upgraded!



    Progress pics:

    (15-Mar-09) wooden prototype base


    (14-Mar-09) all parts purchased


    (15-Mar-09) prelim design


    (24-Mar-09) RHS connectors fail


    (26-Mar-09) New method to join frame


    (29-Mar-09) Parts Complete


    (5-Apr-09) Partial Assembly


    (5-Jul-09) Frame



    (5-Jul-09) Seat test


    (26-Jul-09) Build Update


    (19-Jul-09) Redesigned Wheel Mount


    (03-Aug-09) Handbrake & Console


    (10-Aug-09) Assembled Rig Test


    (16-Aug-09) Finished Console


    (16-Aug-09) Finished Console Close ups


    (18-Aug-2009) Finished Foot Area


    (18-Aug-2009) POV Shot


    (16-Sep-2009) Quick release wheel mounting addon


    (16-Sep-2009) Full Driving Setup


    (16-Sep-2009) Full Flight Setup




     



    * preview.png (20.04 KB, 120x90 - viewed 3682 times.)

    * SDC11077s 18-08-2009.png (17.86 KB, 120x90 - viewed 11735 times.)
    « Last Edit: April 30, 2012, 05:15:34 PM by JasonJ » Logged

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    « Reply #1 on: March 23, 2009, 06:34:08 PM »

    cool project. Good luck with it mate. That's gonna be a fully homebuilt cockpit when it's done. I see you already got yourself a nice seat too.

    welcome to the site. Looking forward to the follow up. 
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    Enhancing my game experience with:

    -Sanyo PLV-Z2000 1080p projector
    -Trackir 5
    -Thrustmaster T500RS Wheel
    -Logitech G5 Mouse
    -Logitech Extreme 3d Pro Joystick
    -Other cool stuff.
    [PRC] Steve
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    « Reply #2 on: March 23, 2009, 07:09:21 PM »

    I once thought about using rhs connectors, but didnt find any here, I used to build shelving with them in the Uk and always found them strong and sturdy.
    Looking forward to the completed rig and welcome to Twip 
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    theChamp
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    « Reply #3 on: March 23, 2009, 07:33:41 PM »

    Sounds like an interesting build with all the adjustable parts. Looking forward to see this rig progress. smile

    (And Welcome to TWIP!)
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    SJ_Stein
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    « Reply #4 on: March 23, 2009, 07:39:00 PM »

    Looks to become something tasty, good luck with the build, i'll be watching the progress (that is, if you make some progress reports to match ofcourse!)



    Best of luck!



    Woof ~ Woof

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    Steiny

    We might stop playing because we are ageing, but it  turns out, that we are ageing, by not playing
    JasonJ
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    « Reply #5 on: March 24, 2009, 01:54:18 AM »

    Thanks very muchly for the interest and support.

    This should have been finished last week, but the connectors are proving stubborn. I'm spending the next few nights after work shaving off extra plastic to make them fit a bit easier. I should buy an angle grinder cause it's taking me about and hour to trim up each connector with a stanley knife & soldering iron and I've cut my thumb several times so lots of blood and swearing up till this point. Even after trimming them down a few millimeters the casing warps and buckles when I insert them. I'm using a wooden mallet if you're wondering.
    I got 25x25 x1.6 RHS and thats the same size rating as the connectors. They just are much too big, but are made that way to to get a really tight fitting and I've already wrecked two of them trying to hit them home.   

    At this point hiring a welder for a weekend would have been quicker, easier and less costly. If I was ever to do this again, I would go for making the frame out of MDF. I went this route because I thought these connectors would have made things really easy and I wouldn't have to buy a Jigsaw to cut MDF. Turns out they (RHS conenctors) will be the hardest part to deal with.

    What's the best method to cutting light checker plate steel? An Angle grinder?
    « Last Edit: March 29, 2009, 11:02:15 PM by JasonJ » Logged

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    « Reply #6 on: March 24, 2009, 02:15:41 AM »

    real pity that you're running into such complications with the connector parts. It's such a good idea on paper. Those things look perfect for the job, if they wouldn't tear.
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    Enhancing my game experience with:

    -Sanyo PLV-Z2000 1080p projector
    -Trackir 5
    -Thrustmaster T500RS Wheel
    -Logitech G5 Mouse
    -Logitech Extreme 3d Pro Joystick
    -Other cool stuff.
    AlarmedBread
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    « Reply #7 on: March 24, 2009, 04:12:10 AM »

    What exactly are you trying to cut or grind? If you can post a picture and mark what you're trying to do we can help ya find the right tool for the job.
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    JasonJ
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    « Reply #8 on: March 24, 2009, 10:18:45 PM »

    3mm Checker Plate Steel


    I'm thinking of cutting it with my 100mm angle grinder
    « Last Edit: March 25, 2009, 12:42:27 AM by JasonJ » Logged

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    « Reply #9 on: March 25, 2009, 01:11:43 AM »

    Well if all you have is the angle grinder then you can buy metal cutting wheels for those. Depending on how thick that stuff is it should work ok for mostly straight cuts. I usually take care of that kinda stuff in an old table saw with a metal wheel.  Grin
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    JasonJ
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    « Reply #10 on: March 25, 2009, 02:04:07 AM »

    Ok thanks for the tip. I'll be chopping it this weekend.


    I've given up on the RHS connectors. Over a week now trying to make them work. Even after trimming them down they still break and warp when I hit them in. I broke another one last night. 5 out of 6 have broken for me now. Inside the plastic casing there are small RHS pieces tack welded together. When you hit the connectors to get them home the welds break pretty easily. Also as you hit them the plastic casing splits and they turn to crap. Completely useless if you ask me and at about $14.00ea I'm pretty pissed. Oh well, live and learn I guess.

    I picked up 8 heavy duty right angle brackets @ $1.80ea. So I'll use them instead with some bolts.

    (26-Mar-09) New method to join frame
    « Last Edit: September 16, 2009, 02:19:39 PM by JasonJ » Logged

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    « Reply #11 on: March 25, 2009, 03:42:06 AM »

    keeping my fingers crossed that this will work better. Good luck!
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    Enhancing my game experience with:

    -Sanyo PLV-Z2000 1080p projector
    -Trackir 5
    -Thrustmaster T500RS Wheel
    -Logitech G5 Mouse
    -Logitech Extreme 3d Pro Joystick
    -Other cool stuff.
    SJ_Stein
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    « Reply #12 on: March 26, 2009, 06:59:09 PM »

    Felt the hurt in my fingers as i read that shaving and cutting bit... shock .....   go simple m8, basic and simple.. and dont hurt yourself to much in the process.


    Good luck m8



    Woof ~ Woof

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    Steiny

    We might stop playing because we are ageing, but it  turns out, that we are ageing, by not playing
    JasonJ
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    « Reply #13 on: March 29, 2009, 01:45:40 PM »

    Going slow. This weekends worth of polishing and building pictured below. Decided to match the checkerplate steel and go for the metallic look. Hopefully this will also match the grey sheepskin nicely.
    Only 15 pieces left to polish.
    (29-Mar-09)


    (5-Apr-09)


    I might add, I originally put this thread in this forum because the plastic connectors messed up so badly I had to go "back to the drawing board". But I realise now, this is probably in the wrong section. Moderator can move this thread it if they feel the need.
    « Last Edit: July 05, 2009, 02:39:58 AM by JasonJ » Logged

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    « Reply #14 on: March 30, 2009, 06:51:37 PM »

    Well, you have an eye for detail, that pit is gonna look pretty good I think.

    About your thread: Like I told davybull in his drawing board topic, you can do what you want. You can make a new topic in the TWIP section when your rig is a little more finished and then just link to this one and vice versa. Or if you want I could also move this entire topic into the TWIP section and just continue on that way. Let me know if you want it moved and I'll do so.
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    Enhancing my game experience with:

    -Sanyo PLV-Z2000 1080p projector
    -Trackir 5
    -Thrustmaster T500RS Wheel
    -Logitech G5 Mouse
    -Logitech Extreme 3d Pro Joystick
    -Other cool stuff.
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